• 11th June 2015 - By Indian Accent Restaurant

    Executive Chef Vivek Rana with Corporate Chef Manish Mehrotra during World Gourmet Summit in SingaporeBy Anoothi Vishal

    Menu changes at Indian Accent come just twice a year, and sporadically in between. So these are bi-annual events that we look forward to. This year, the summer menu launches on Monday, May 25, and surprisingly, it was the maincourses that blew me away at a preview dinner that I went through yesterday.

    The other change, of course, is that it was chef Vivek Rana who presented the menu. Chef Rana has been working with chef Manish Mehrotra for almost 8 years now and primarily worked on the many and exclusive events that Indian Accent caters to. With chef Mehrotra’s responsibilities steadily growing and diversifying—in all corners of the globe—the attempt, quite sensibly, is to gradually establish chef Rana as the executive chef of the establishment, even as chef Malhotra is credited as the “corporate chef-luxury dining” in the menu.

    This year will see interesting movements in the group (already underway), part of Rohit Khattar’s Old World Hospitality, and get ready to watch and hear commentary on these on the lines of a ball-by-ball cricket account!

    On the other hand, industry insiders aside, the diners themselves are (usually) concerned with what lands up on the table. This was the first time that chef Rana was presenting his menu to me and given his obvious talent, Indian Accent seems to be in safe enough hands.

    The 5 new dishes, I would recommend to you are:

    1. Smoked masala papad: This is the first appetiser that came to the table and I must admit, I was inclined to be a little dismissive of it, primarily because, I am, for some reason, instantly suspicious of anything smoky in a jar these days—we have had so much of that. But the crispy papad bits, mixed with avocado cream and chilli onions in a Mexican-reminiscent equivalent of kachumber salad, are a winner. They retain their crispness, despite being bottled up, but more importantly are deliciously and powerfully smoked, with charcoal and then a smoke gun.

    2. Steamed fish, raw mango chutney, mango candy: The obvious inspiration for this is the Thai-style, steamed-in-pandan catfish, with a dressing of lime and chilli. Like the other Indian Accent top-lister, the patrani machchi-take, this one is a lightly done, summer winner. The fresh raw mango paste that flavours the fish is a winner and summer chic.

    3. Kadhi, with mashed new potato and quinoa onion rings: Each time I do an Indian Accent tasting menu, the mains get ignored, because there is simply no space to tuck in everything. This time, however, despite the many courses, it was the mains that stole the show. I am not a kadhi fan but will recommend this dish, big on both flavours and textures, to everyone. The kadhi works as a piquant sauce, the potato barrels provide a comforting crunch as do the onion rings; a new take on pakori.

    4. Tamarind fish, coconut barley, cashew pakoda: The dish I will come back for. If you like flavours from the south like I do, this is the go to dish. The barley (a summer ingredient) in a light, Thai-style coconut sauce, adds an interesting dimension and texture and the cashew pakoda, that you may have had at Grand Sweets, Chennai, are put in the sauce, as another texture. Brilliant.

    5. Gobindo bhog kheer, nuts, sorbet, air dried fruit: When we dug into this dessert, there was absolute silence. The kheer is nicely and lightly done, its sweetness juxtaposed by the sweet-sour strawberry sorbet and lyophilised fruit, imported at great cost, that Ferran Adria touch, add a rather interesting texture. I am reminded a bit of the dessert Vikramjit Roy does at Tian with this one. But it is a very interesting kheer at any rate and eminently try-able.\

    Source: http://amoveablefeast.in/?p=370

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